Bypass Setting to Run 247 Pentair Easy Touch

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• #1

Im looking for validation that if I follow the attached plumbing diagram, I can successfully use the Pentair CVA-24L, 2-Port Valve Actuator, 90 Degree Rotation, 24v instead of the Intellivalve?

My plan would be to use the valve controller on the Easytouch 8 and assign to "VALVE A" to "Pool or Spa Heater Active" to automatically change from "divert" mode to "heater" mode ...

Just need confirmation / Validation this would not cause any inadvertent or unforeseen damages. (ie. do I need to turn off pump, program delays, etc.?)
What about cool down?
Would this program only work if "heat" is applied (you can be in spa mode, but no heater if the temp is 70* and water is 80* - relevant if I wanted to schedule a daily cycle of the water through heater)

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• #2

My,

You can use a standard actuator in place of an IntelliValve anytime you like.. So that is not an issue..

I "assume" that "Pool and Spa heater active" means the heater is actually calling for heat.. This is normally used to increase the pump speed when the heater kicks in..

If that is true, your valve will cycle on and off when the heater calls for heat.. I don't have a heater so have no real experience with this action..

I am not even sure it shows up in the list of circuits that you can assign to a valve.

Thanks,

Jim R.

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• #3

My,

I suspect I am wrong... again!!

Still don't know how it operates for sure, but you can indeed assign "Pool or Spa heater active" to a valve.

Since it would make no sense for the valve to cycle back and forth only when the heater was calling for heat, I now doubt what I said above is true. On the other had, if Pentair used common sense and logic, their manuals would be easier to read..

What I would do is get the actuator before you did any plumbing modifications.. Then I'd plug the actuator in and pretend it was controlling the water flow and see if it operates like you suspect it does..

Better yet, you could just reassign the valve controlling your waterfall as a test.. Then you would not have to buy the actuator unless you were positive your idea would work.

Thanks,

Jim R.

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• #5

would make no sense for the valve to cycle back and forth

Yeah, I dont have the heater yet and want to plan accordingly. As I was reading I thought the same. Just move an existing actuator and test with what's in hand.

Still, Want to make sure I'm not causing any damage to the heater. Not sure what the requirements are. I found the manual for the intellicenter and it has a dedicated relay BP_VLV = Bypass Valve. So, I have no idea if there are any delays programmed in place. (delays before, after, both?)

Last edited: Apr 24, 2021

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• #6

Nobody else with some input?
Again, no idea if the BP_VLV connection has any delays programmed in place. (delays before, after, both?)
Anyone with an Intellicenter who can help test?

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• #7

I give up. What's the purpose of a heater bypass other than accidental bypass when the heater has not cooled down adequately and causing severe damage to the heater?

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• #8

Short version is to extend heater life.

In summary, times the heater should be bypassed include when:

• The heater is leaking or needs repairs
• opening the pool in the Spring and balancing the water chemistry
• the pH may fall below 7.0
• using any algaecide that may lower the pH below 7.0
• the heater is not being used for periods of time

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• #9

I give up. What's the purpose of a heater bypass other than accidental bypass when the heater has not cooled down adequately and causing severe damage to the heater?

The other reason would be to decrease head pressure when the heater is not heating. My system, without a heater operates at about 70 watts for 30 gal/min of flow. It would probably take about 400 watts when going through the heater at that flow rate. Substantial electrical savings over time.

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• #10

I installed a CVA-24 Actuator on my heater bypass plumbing which existed with a manual valve on the pool when I bought the house. With my setup, using my EasyTouch 8 I can set the valve to partially bypass the heater which is my normal mode to reduce head pressure, or run all of the water through the heater when I want to use the heater. Using the toggle switch on the Actuator I can fully bypass the heater.

In Screen Logic I used valve B and assigned the name "Heater Bypass" to it. Therefore the valve will not cycle on and off when the heater is on.

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• #11

So does that mean you manually change valve via Easy Touch when you use heater?

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• #12

Yes, I change it before I fire the heater up. Easier than going out to the pad to manually change it by hand.

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• #13

The other reason would be to decrease head pressure when the heater is not heating. My system, without a heater operates at about 70 watts for 30 gal/min of flow. It would probably take about 400 watts when going through the heater at that flow rate. Substantial electrical savings over time.

What's the distance between your bypass and your heater that would cause so much additional head pressure? If the distance is sizable, I could see your point. Not the typical setup I see. I see more damage to heaters from an unintended stoppage in flow than the need for a bypass valve. I would also caution against running the heater with a bypass valve in any position other than fully open. The heater needs the full flow to cool the tubes and avoid warping or excessive heat of the plastic manifolds.

Last edited: Apr 27, 2021

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